One of the pleasures of a wine tasting is discovering a producer through more than one bottle. Tasting across a range gives you a broader perspective on the estate, its approach and the different expressions it can create.
At A Tasting of Wines from Italy, organized by the Italian Trade Agency, I had the opportunity to taste the wines of San Fabiano Calcinaia with its export representative, Gabrizia Cellai. From a fresh Tuscan white to an outstanding Chianti Classico Gran Selezione and a bold Cabernet Sauvignon, it was an opportunity to explore the diversity of the estate’s wines.
Among them, the Chianti Classico 2022, available at the SAQ, stood out for its freshness, savoury complexity and a surprising detail on the finish.
The producer: San Fabiano Calcinaia
Located in the hills between Poggibonsi and Castellina in Chianti, San Fabiano Calcinaia has been in the hands of Guido Serio and his wife Isa since 1983. They invested in renewing the vineyards and cellars, focusing on quality wines made from estate-grown grapes.
The estate began its conversion to organic production in 2009, a choice the producer describes as part of its commitment to quality and sustainability.
The Chianti Classico: From vineyard to bottle
The San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico 2022 is made from 90% Sangiovese and 10% complementary varieties. The grapes come from the San Fabiano and Cellole areas, at approximately 250 and 450 metres above sea level respectively.
The grapes are selected in the vineyard and cellar, then fermented at controlled temperatures with approximately 10 to 15 days of skin contact. Grapes from different origins are kept separate through fermentation and aging, with blending taking place afterward.
The wine spends approximately 12 months in previously used tonneaux, followed by at least six months in bottle. In the glass, I found the oak well integrated, allowing the fruit and savoury notes to remain the focus.
My tasting notes
The nose opens with dried cherry and raspberry, lifted by a fresh touch of Mediterranean herbs. With air, more savoury notes emerge: dried flowers, tobacco, earth, leather and spices, with a subtle hint of truffle.
On the palate, ripe red fruit is supported by freshness and fine, polished tannins. There is a balance between fruit and savoury character that makes me want to bring this bottle to the table.
The most surprising detail came on the finish: a note reminiscent of red apple skin. It was the first time I had noticed that particular impression in a red wine, and it made the tasting even more interesting.
I recommend giving it some air before serving so its aromas have time to open up.
Beyond the Chianti Classico
Tasting the range with Gabrizia also gave me the chance to discover other sides of the estate.
The Cerviolo 2025 Toscana Bianco brought a fresh start to the tasting: a lively, refreshing white that made an immediate impression.
The Cellole 2021 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Castellina was a highlight. It showed outstanding quality and complexity, while retaining the vibrant energy of Sangiovese.
We concluded with the Cabernet Sauvignon, a bold, structured wine with a very ripe character—a different expression from the estate and an interesting way to finish the tasting. Both the Cellole and Cabernet Sauvignon are available at the SAQ.
At the table
The Chianti Classico 2022 is a wine I would enjoy with food. Its freshness and savoury character would work well with pasta with tomato sauce and Italian sausage, roasted chicken with herbs, grilled pork or lamb, or a mushroom risotto. It would also be enjoyable alongside Italian cheeses and charcuterie.
For me, this is a Chianti Classico worth taking your time with: pour a glass, let it open and enjoy how the fruit, herbs and earthy details come together over a meal.
Country/Region: Tuscany, Italy
Grape: Sangiovese 90%
Vintage: 2022
Alcohol : 13%
Producer: San Fabiano Calcinaia
San Fabian Calcinaia Chianti Classico 2022
