Tolaini Al Passo 2022: A Modern Tuscan Blend with Sangiovese at Heart
Tolaini is a family estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga, in the southern part of Chianti Classico. Founder Pier Luigi Tolaini returned to his Tuscan roots after building his career in North America, eventually acquiring the Montebello and San Giovanni properties after a four-year search for the right vineyard sites. Today, the estate remains family-run, with Lia Tolaini and the next generation continuing his project, while the vineyards are farmed organically and the winery is carbon neutral.
Al Passo 2022 is a Toscana IGT composed of 34% Sangiovese, 33% Merlot and 33% Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes come from vineyards within the Chianti Classico area, on silty-clay soils rich in limestone and stones. After fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel with around 20 days of skin contact, the wine spends 14 months in French-oak fermenters and barriques, including six months on the fine lees. The name Al Passo comes from a circular woodland at the highest point of the Vallenuova vineyard, where an Etruscan tomb more than 2,500 years old is found.
The 2022 Al Passo opens with bright cherry and ripe red berries, followed by dried Mediterranean herbs and a subtle layer of spice. On the palate, the Sangiovese brings freshness and energy, while Merlot adds roundness and Cabernet Sauvignon gives the wine additional depth and structure. The tannins are polished and the oak feels well integrated, allowing the wine to remain fresh and gastronomic rather than becoming heavy.
My impressions fit naturally with Tolaini's own description of red fruit, liquorice, vanilla and black pepper, while other published notes on the 2022 also highlight dark cherry, blackberry, cocoa and subtle spice. What stood out most to me, however, was the finesse and balance: enough richness to give the wine substance, but with the acidity and savoury character still clearly leading the experience.
I recently revisited Al Passo 2022 during a tasting in Montréal, and what I appreciated most was how successfully it seems to balance two sides of modern Tuscany. Sangiovese has only a slight numerical lead in the blend, yet its freshness and Tuscan personality remain very present. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon do not disguise that identity; instead, they bring extra texture, depth and polish.
For me, that is what makes the wine interesting. It does not feel like an attempt to reproduce Bordeaux in Tuscany. The international varieties are used to broaden the structure of the wine while the cherry fruit, dried herbs and lively freshness keep its Tuscan character intact.
The tasting was also an opportunity to catch up with Alex Banville and exchange ideas about wine, changing consumer tastes and what is happening across the wine scenes in Montréal, Italy and New York. Those conversations are often as memorable as the bottles themselves, and Al Passo suited that setting perfectly: a polished wine with enough complexity to discuss, but one that ultimately feels made for food, conversation and a long dinner around the table.
Al Passo is particularly comfortable with dishes that have both richness and savoury depth. Bistecca alla Fiorentina is an obvious Tuscan match, with the wine's acidity and tannins balancing the fat and char of the beef. Pappardelle al ragù, grilled lamb, roasted meats and wild-game dishes would work equally well, especially when rosemary, sage or other Mediterranean herbs are part of the preparation.
It is the type of red that has enough structure for a serious main course but remains fresh enough to stay on the table throughout a long meal.
Country/Region: Tuscany, Italy
Grape: Sangiovese 34 %, Cabernet-sauvignon 33% , Merlot 33%
Vintage: 2022
Alcohol : 15%
Producer: Tolaini
